A tale of two worlds: commercial classics and haute horlogerie heroes
By Anandhi Gopinath
In the world of fine watches, there’s a lot more to a timepiece than just keeping time. Some watches are tools, built with precision and purpose. Others are expressions of artistry, pushing boundaries in design and craftsmanship. And while all luxury watches carry prestige, not all are created equal. At one end of the spectrum, you have commercial brands that are polished, dependable, and widely recognised. At the other, you’ll find high watchmaking names that are more niche, often handmade, and brimming with detail. The question isn’t which is better, but rather, which is better for you.
The pull of the familiar
Let’s start with what we call the “commercial” side of the market. But this doesn’t mean mass-produced or ordinary. Rather, it refers to brands with broader appeal, larger production numbers, and a strong global presence.
Breitling is a perfect example. Known for its aviation and diving watches, Breitling’s latest releases show just how versatile the brand has become. The recently refreshed Top Time collection, for instance, captures the free-spirited energy of 1960s sports chronographs. With bold dials inspired by classic American muscle cars and motorbikes, these watches feel vibrant, wearable, and just different enough. They show how Breitling has mastered the art of reinterpreting its heritage for today’s watch buyers—those who want a bit of nostalgia without giving up modern comfort.
Maurice Lacroix, meanwhile, has continued to build on the momentum of its flagship Aikon collection. The newest addition, the Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe, plays up the brand’s urban cool with a bold, engraved case and an openworked dial that shows off its mechanical heart. It’s a watch that speaks directly to younger collectors—those who want their timepieces to say something about their lifestyle, not just their budget. Maurice Lacroix has found a sweet spot between Swiss quality and fresh design, and it shows.
These brands appeal to those who want a watch that makes a statement but still feels approachable—watches that you can wear every day, take on your travels, or gift with confidence. They come with brand recognition, customer support, and sometimes even resale value. And while their prices may vary, they tend to be positioned within a range that feels aspirational rather than out of reach, making them ideal entry points into the world of luxury.
The allure of the exceptional
Then there’s haute horlogerie—literally “high watchmaking.” These are the brands that take craftsmanship to the next level. They’re not trying to please everyone. They’re not about flashy ad campaigns or celebrity ambassadors. Instead, they focus on artistry, invention, and often, exclusivity.
Tudor’s Black Bay 58 has long been a cult favourite, and this year’s new burgundy edition cements its collectability. Inspired by a 1990s prototype Submariner that never saw production, the watch features a radial-brushed burgundy dial paired with a matching aluminium bezel—giving it an unmistakably bold yet elegant presence on the wrist.
Tudor’s Black Bay 58 has long been a cult favourite, and this year’s new burgundy edition cements its collectability. Inspired by a 1990s prototype Submariner that never saw production, the watch features a radial-brushed burgundy dial paired with a matching aluminium bezel—giving it an unmistakably bold yet elegant presence on the wrist.
Housed in a 39mm stainless steel case and powered by the METAS-certified Calibre MT5400-U, it offers a 65-hour power reserve, Master Chronometer precision, and anti-magnetic performance. Ergonomic upgrades like a redesigned crown and the addition of the T-fit clasp across the rivet-style bracelet, 5-link bracelet, and rubber strap options enhance comfort and wearability. Heritage-rich yet unmistakably modern, the new Black Bay 58 Burgundy is a true standout for collectors and enthusiasts alike.
Oris reimagines one of its most enduring designs with the New Big Crown Calibre 403, linking decades of aviation heritage to modern mechanical excellence. First launched in 1938 for pilots needing quick, clear time-reading, the Big Crown remains instantly recognisable—oversized crown, bold Arabic numerals, and a domed crystal all intact.
MAURICE LACROIX
Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe Limited Edition
BREITLING
Top Time B01 Racing
But if you’re looking for something that feels rare and deeply personal—something that tells a story most people haven’t heard yet—a high watchmaking brand like Bovet or Bianchet might be worth the leap. The investment is undoubtedly greater, but so is the reward: a piece of living art, steeped in passion, and built to last generations.
BIANCHET
Grande Date Carbon Red
BOVET
Recital 28 Prowess 1
There’s no right or wrong choice. The world of watches is large enough to contain both worlds—and many collectors eventually find themselves moving between the two. Whether you’re starting out or ready to step into the realm of true craftsmanship, the important thing is that your watch reflects who you are, where you are in your journey, and perhaps, where you’re going next.
A tale of two worlds: commercial classics and haute horlogerie heroes
By Anandhi Gopinath
In the world of fine watches, there’s a lot more to a timepiece than just keeping time. Some watches are tools, built with precision and purpose. Others are expressions of artistry, pushing boundaries in design and craftsmanship. And while all luxury watches carry prestige, not all are created equal. At one end of the spectrum, you have commercial brands that are polished, dependable, and widely recognised. At the other, you’ll find high watchmaking names that are more niche, often handmade, and brimming with detail. The question isn’t which is better, but rather, which is better for you.
The pull of the familiar
Let’s start with what we call the “commercial” side of the market. But this doesn’t mean mass-produced or ordinary. Rather, it refers to brands with broader appeal, larger production numbers, and a strong global presence.
Breitling is a perfect example. Known for its aviation and diving watches, Breitling’s latest releases show just how versatile the brand has become. The recently refreshed Top Time collection, for instance, captures the free-spirited energy of 1960s sports chronographs. With bold dials inspired by classic American muscle cars and motorbikes, these watches feel vibrant, wearable, and just different enough. They show how Breitling has mastered the art of reinterpreting its heritage for today’s watch buyers—those who want a bit of nostalgia without giving up modern comfort.
Maurice Lacroix, meanwhile, has continued to build on the momentum of its flagship Aikon collection. The newest addition, the Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe, plays up the brand’s urban cool with a bold, engraved case and an openworked dial that shows off its mechanical heart. It’s a watch that speaks directly to younger collectors—those who want their timepieces to say something about their lifestyle, not just their budget. Maurice Lacroix has found a sweet spot between Swiss quality and fresh design, and it shows. These brands appeal to those who want a watch that makes a statement but still feels approachable—watches that you can wear every day, take on your travels, or gift with confidence. They come with brand recognition, customer support, and sometimes even resale value. And while their prices may vary, they tend to be positioned within a range that feels aspirational rather than out of reach, making them ideal entry points into the world of luxury.
Bovet is one of the great names in this category. Each timepiece is a miniature work of art, and their latest creation, the Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1, is nothing short of extraordinary. With five patents and an in-house movement featuring a world-first vertical escapement system, this is a watch that redefines complexity. But beyond its mechanics, it’s the hand-engraved finishes, the poetic dial layout, and the unmistakable Bovet case shape that tell the real story: this is craftsmanship on a near-spiritual level.
Bianchet, though newer to the scene, has quickly made its mark with its tonneau-shaped tourbillons that combine advanced materials with a love of symmetry. The new Tourbillon Grande Date follows the golden ratio blueprint that defines Bianchet’s aesthetic but adds a practical complication with the oversized date display. With a titanium-carbon case and shock-resistant architecture, this is high watchmaking with real-world wearability. It’s a watch that proves haute horlogerie can be avant-garde, not just traditional.
These are pieces you acquire not just for what they do, but for how they make you feel. They’re far more limited in production, often handcrafted, and priced accordingly—not to exclude, but to reflect the time, artistry, and intimacy poured into each piece. They appeal to those who are looking not for a logo, but for legacy.
Choosing between the two
As a buyer, how does one decide? It comes down to what you’re looking for in a watch and what you want it to say about you. A Breitling Top Time or Maurice Lacroix Aikon might fit seamlessly into your lifestyle: stylish, robust, easy to wear, and easy to service. They offer a strong introduction to luxury watchmaking without the pressure of becoming a connoisseur overnight—and they do so at a price that feels balanced between aspiration and attainability.
MAURICE LACROIX
Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe Limited Edition
BREITLING
Top Time B01 Racing
But if you’re looking for something that feels rare and deeply personal—something that tells a story most people haven’t heard yet—a high watchmaking brand like Bovet or Bianchet might be worth the leap. The investment is undoubtedly greater, but so is the reward: a piece of living art, steeped in passion, and built to last generations.
BIANCHET
Grande Date Carbon Red
BOVET
Recital 28 Prowess 1
There’s no right or wrong choice. The world of watches is large enough to contain both worlds—and many collectors eventually find themselves moving between the two. Whether you’re starting out or ready to step into the realm of true craftsmanship, the important thing is that your watch reflects who you are, where you are in your journey, and perhaps, where you’re going next.
