A tale of two worlds: commercial classics and haute horlogerie heroes
By Anandhi Gopinath
In the world of fine watches, there’s a lot more to a timepiece than just keeping time. Some watches are tools, built with precision and purpose. Others are expressions of artistry, pushing boundaries in design and craftsmanship. And while all luxury watches carry prestige, not all are created equal. At one end of the spectrum, you have commercial brands that are polished, dependable, and widely recognised. At the other, you’ll find high watchmaking names that are more niche, often handmade, and brimming with detail. The question isn’t which is better, but rather, which is better for you.
The pull of the familiar
Let’s start with what we call the “commercial” side of the market. But this doesn’t mean mass-produced or ordinary. Rather, it refers to brands with broader appeal, larger production numbers, and a strong global presence.
Rooted in Bremont’s history of rugged timepieces yet built with modern flair, the Terra Nova 40.5 Jumping Hour brings a rare complication to the brand’s refined field watch aesthetic. The polished and brushed 904L stainless steel case, sized at 40.5mm, houses the exclusive BC634 Jumping Hour calibre, engineered for a crisp and instantaneous jump of the hour disc. Its gloss black dial, detailed with applied markers and a fine minute track, presents an intuitive left-to-right display of hours and minutes, while a centrally mounted seconds hand—tipped in Super-LumiNova—ensures optimal visibility in all light conditions. Offering 100 metres of water resistance, an anti-shock movement mount, and availability on either a robust stainless-steel bracelet or a supple leather strap, this is a technical field watch built for everyday adventures.
Breitling is a perfect example. Known for its aviation and diving watches, Breitling’s latest releases show just how versatile the brand has become. The recently refreshed Top Time collection, for instance, captures the free-spirited energy of 1960s sports chronographs. With bold dials inspired by classic American muscle cars and motorbikes, these watches feel vibrant, wearable, and just different enough. They show how Breitling has mastered the art of reinterpreting its heritage for today’s watch buyers—those who want a bit of nostalgia without giving up modern comfort.
Maurice Lacroix, meanwhile, has continued to build on the momentum of its flagship Aikon collection. The newest addition, the Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe, plays up the brand’s urban cool with a bold, engraved case and an openworked dial that shows off its mechanical heart. It’s a watch that speaks directly to younger collectors—those who want their timepieces to say something about their lifestyle, not just their budget. Maurice Lacroix has found a sweet spot between Swiss quality and fresh design, and it shows.
These brands appeal to those who want a watch that makes a statement but still feels approachable—watches that you can wear every day, take on your travels, or gift with confidence. They come with brand recognition, customer support, and sometimes even resale value. And while their prices may vary, they tend to be positioned within a range that feels aspirational rather than out of reach, making them ideal entry points into the world of luxury.
The allure of the exceptional
Then there’s haute horlogerie—literally “high watchmaking.” These are the brands that take craftsmanship to the next level. They’re not trying to please everyone. They’re not about flashy ad campaigns or celebrity ambassadors. Instead, they focus on artistry, invention, and often, exclusivity.
Tudor’s Black Bay 58 has long been a cult favourite, and this year’s new burgundy edition cements its collectability. Inspired by a 1990s prototype Submariner that never saw production, the watch features a radial-brushed burgundy dial paired with a matching aluminium bezel—giving it an unmistakably bold yet elegant presence on the wrist.
Tudor’s Black Bay 58 has long been a cult favourite, and this year’s new burgundy edition cements its collectability. Inspired by a 1990s prototype Submariner that never saw production, the watch features a radial-brushed burgundy dial paired with a matching aluminium bezel—giving it an unmistakably bold yet elegant presence on the wrist.
Housed in a 39mm stainless steel case and powered by the METAS-certified Calibre MT5400-U, it offers a 65-hour power reserve, Master Chronometer precision, and anti-magnetic performance. Ergonomic upgrades like a redesigned crown and the addition of the T-fit clasp across the rivet-style bracelet, 5-link bracelet, and rubber strap options enhance comfort and wearability. Heritage-rich yet unmistakably modern, the new Black Bay 58 Burgundy is a true standout for collectors and enthusiasts alike.
Oris reimagines one of its most enduring designs with the New Big Crown Calibre 403, linking decades of aviation heritage to modern mechanical excellence. First launched in 1938 for pilots needing quick, clear time-reading, the Big Crown remains instantly recognisable—oversized crown, bold Arabic numerals, and a domed crystal all intact.
MAURICE LACROIX
Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe Limited Edition
BREITLING
Top Time B01 Racing
The latest 40mm stainless steel version refines the silhouette, introducing a sleeker case and a more balanced dial layout with a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Beneath it beats Oris’ in-house Calibre 403, offering a five-day power reserve, enhanced anti-magnetism, and a 10-year recommended service interval. Fitted with a quick-change steel bracelet and water resistant to 50 metres, the New Big Crown is a confident evolution of a true Oris classic.
A tale of two worlds: commercial classics and haute horlogerie heroes
By Anandhi Gopinath
To celebrate 20 years of its iconic square design, Bell & Ross has unveiled a trilogy of skeletonised BR 03 models, each offering a different interpretation of technical architecture. Among them, the BR 03 Skeleton Grey Steel stands out for its clean, metallic brilliance. The 41mm satin-finished steel case houses the new BR-CAL.328 automatic skeleton movement, offering a 54-hour power reserve and a striking openworked architecture. Light plays across the rhodium-plated, Super-LumiNova-filled hands and faceted bridges, designed to evoke the aerodynamic stealth of aviation technology.
The transparent sapphire dial and architectural construction showcase a more technical, sculptural side of the BR 03, without sacrificing the rugged readability that defines the line. Bold yet sophisticated, the Skeleton Grey Steel marks a milestone moment for Bell & Ross—honouring two decades of functional design reimagined through contemporary watchmaking craftsmanship.
Rooted in Bremont’s history of rugged timepieces yet built with modern flair, the Terra Nova 40.5 Jumping Hour brings a rare complication to the brand’s refined field watch aesthetic. The polished and brushed 904L stainless steel case, sized at 40.5mm, houses the exclusive BC634 Jumping Hour calibre, engineered for a crisp and instantaneous jump of the hour disc. Its gloss black dial, detailed with applied markers and a fine minute track, presents an intuitive left-to-right display of hours and minutes, while a centrally mounted seconds hand—tipped in Super-LumiNova—ensures optimal visibility in all light conditions. Offering 100 metres of water resistance, an anti-shock movement mount, and availability on either a robust stainless-steel bracelet or a supple leather strap, this is a technical field watch built for everyday adventures.
This year, TAG Heuer sharpens the racing spirit of the Carrera with the newly reimagined Day-Date 39mm. A cornerstone of the collection since 1963, the Carrera now features a more refined case profile—thinner, sleeker, and ergonomically reworked for greater wearing comfort. The updated sunray-brushed dials, available in black, blue, or white, reinforce the focus on clarity and legibility that made the Carrera a motorsport essential.
Enlarged day and date windows at 3 o’clock improve usability at a glance, while sharp-edged hands and indexes reflect the precision timing DNA. Powered by the automatic Calibre 5, the new model stays true to the Carrera’s racing roots while subtly modernising its proportions for contemporary life. Clean, fast, and unmistakably Carrera—built for the road ahead.
Tudor’s Black Bay 58 has long been a cult favourite, and this year’s new burgundy edition cements its collectability. Inspired by a 1990s prototype Submariner that never saw production, the watch features a radial-brushed burgundy dial paired with a matching aluminium bezel—giving it an unmistakably bold yet elegant presence on the wrist.
Housed in a 39mm stainless steel case and powered by the METAS-certified Calibre MT5400-U, it offers a 65-hour power reserve, Master Chronometer precision, and anti-magnetic performance. Ergonomic upgrades like a redesigned crown and the addition of the T-fit clasp across the rivet-style bracelet, 5-link bracelet, and rubber strap options enhance comfort and wearability. Heritage-rich yet unmistakably modern, the new Black Bay 58 Burgundy is a true standout for collectors and enthusiasts alike.
Oris reimagines one of its most enduring designs with the New Big Crown Calibre 403, linking decades of aviation heritage to modern mechanical excellence. First launched in 1938 for pilots needing quick, clear time-reading, the Big Crown remains instantly recognisable—oversized crown, bold Arabic numerals, and a domed crystal all intact.
The latest 40mm stainless steel version refines the silhouette, introducing a sleeker case and a more balanced dial layout with a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Beneath it beats Oris’ in-house Calibre 403, offering a five-day power reserve, enhanced anti-magnetism, and a 10-year recommended service interval. Fitted with a quick-change steel bracelet and water resistant to 50 metres, the New Big Crown is a confident evolution of a true Oris classic.
